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I haven't yet (*fingers crossed*) had a Logitech item which needed replacement under warranty. I wonder if 1000 grit would work - I want to use a fine grit so that the plastic remains smooth.Īs for the warranty. I didn't think about sanding first, though it make sense. They dont adhere to the black part very well and shouldnt be too bad to remove.Ĭlick to expand.Thanks for the reply. All you need to do is take a knife and chip away the little orange pieces that are melted.
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It has little plastic rods that protrude through the holes and they have been melted to the black glossy trim to ensure a good mate.
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The orange piece just snaps into place but is also melted there as well.
#LOGITECH G710 KEYBOARD REPLACEMENT KEY MOD#
Okay because I didnt want orange here is how the mod come into play. Here you can see the thickness of the PCB and metal plate. Nice thick study metal base for all the keys to attach. Here you can kind of see how the orange piece is removable. Pretty slick cable routing underneath the keyboard. Almost a little rough but should smooth out over time. I'll have to try this when I get a chance.The keys have a nice textured finish. It's probably not connected to anything other than the cable coming in, so in theory, all one needs is to connect those two white connectors together inside the keyboard. It really looks like the pass-through USB connector can be used to make a detachable cable. The keyboard is almost 1cm shorter without the plastics.Īnd another thing. I've always thought that mechanical keyboards are a bit too tall for comfortable typing this has removed all doubt. When it sits with the board directly on the desk, it is so much nicer to type on that I was really sad to have to put it back together, as it doesn't look like it will last a long time without the bottom. All that was needed was to solder the pin to the pad properly:īy the way, the keyboard works perfectly well with all the plastic removed.
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I had actually ordered a spare switch, thinking it needed to be replaced. That tiny amount of solder connecting the pad to the key must be how this keyboard passed quality control at the factory. This pin is supposed to be covered with solder like all the other ones around it. Now flip it over, and tada! Here's the problem: With the front removed, you can access the four remaining screws holding the main board in place:ĭisconnect the USB cables and you're done! Watch out for the cable connecting the volume wheel to the main board: The trickiest clips were just above the arrow keys, here's a photo of where they attach: It's not held by anything other than the clips and the visible screws on the back. It didn't come off without a fight, but it wasn't the worst either. First remove all the screws from the back, then unclip the front face. They like to place screws under stickers or rubber pads on cheaper keyboards, so it was quite a relief. There are no hidden screws anywhere, kudos to Logitech for that. This keyboard turns out to be pretty easy to disassemble. The seller offered to exchange it, but since it shipped from the US and the exchange was going to take ages, I decided to try to repair it instead. Then, the Enter key became rather flaky: half the time, it would not register at all, and the other half it would register twice. I bought a nearly new Logitech G710+ very cheap on eBay and it worked great for several days.